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Concrete block construction may be necessary for projects that
plan to build the skatepark above ground or into a hillside.
Also, concrete block assembly may be necessary to build the
back walls of free-standing obstacles such as half pipes. A
cinder block wall is the quickest and easiest in most
instances. For placing concrete block, you will need a
masonry hammer, brick trowel, point trowel, joining tool,
4-feet level, tape measure, brick chisel, and mason line.
For block construction a footing is required. The footing
prevents shifting caused by normal ground movement and
distributes the weight of the wall over a greater surface
area. Footings should be made of concrete on firm ground
below the frost line. The footing should be a minimum of 12
inches in depth and at least twice as wide as the width of the
wall. The footing should be poured on a minimum of 6 inches
of compacted gravel. Consult local code before laying the
footing. The size of a standard concrete block is 7 5/8 x 7
5/8 x 15 5/8. When working with concrete block work out your
dimensions in multiples of 8 or 16 inches. This allows for a
mortar joint thickness of 3/8-inch in addition to the
thickness or height of the block. In this way, cutting of the
concrete block is kept to a minimum. Half blocks are also
available for corners.
To begin a block wall, lay a thick bedding of mortar at the
corner of the footing using the masonry trowel. This prevents
the block from skidding. Lay the corners by placing the first
corner block firmly in the mortar bed at the corner. Then
butter (spread a layer of mortar) the exposed edges of the
block and place the second block in the course (a layer of
block is called a course). On the opposite side of the
corner, lay another thick layer of mortar on the footing and
butter the edges of the block to be placed. As you lay the
block, place it firmly against the first block already
positioned in order to form a right angle. The outsides of
these two blocks should be flush. To confirm this, check with
the level or a square. Butter the exposed edges of the block
and lay the second block in the course. The mortar joint
between the blocks should be 3/8 of an inch. If the thickness
of the joint exceeds 3/8 of an inch use the handle of the
masonry trowel to tap the block into position.
For the next course, butter the exposed upper edges of the
positioned blocks. Lay another corner block to overlap the
joint formed by the corner blocks of the first course and
continue laying (pyramiding) corner blocks in the same manner
to the third or fourth course. Use the level to check for
plumb and level. If any blocks are out of position use the
handle of the masonry trowel to tap them into place. Move to
the next corner and follow the same method. Always work from
the corners to the center of the wall, keeping the corners
built up higher than the rest of the wall. Avoid spreading
mortar too far ahead as it may dry out and lose its holding
power before the blocks are placed within the wall. Working
two or three blocks ahead is plenty. If the temperature is
high you may have to go one block at a time.
String stretched to form a line between the
corners of the wall will provide a line guide for straight
courses. By pushing gently with the level and tapping the
blocks with the masonry hammer, the blocks can be moved into
place. For additional courses apply mortar to the edges of
the previous course a few blocks at a time, and also apply
mortar to the ends of the blocks that will be placed next.
Then place the blocks into position. The joint tool is used to
strike (smooth) the mortar joint after the mortar has set for
a time. When you have layered concrete block within two
courses of the top of the wall, use a piece of a sheet of wire
mesh to plug the cores (the hollow center of the concrete
block). As you finish laying the final two courses fill the
plugged cores with mortar. For the greatest strength, rebar
can be placed vertically through the holes in the block and
the cores filled with concrete. Consult local code for exact
requirements.

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