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HOW-TO GUIDE

 

The Complete Step by Step Guide to Concrete Skatepark Construction

On CD-ROM

 

TransWorld Skateboarding called this e-book "The Public Skatepark Builders Bible"


With this innovative do-it-yourself approach it is possible for your community or organization to build your own concrete skatepark, and save thousands of dollars in the process.
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$24.95 shipped worldwide.
Free shipping over $100

SKATEPARK PLANS

Anytown Skatepark Plans
on CD-ROM

Why waste time and money trying to figure out what is standard practice for skatepark industry professionals?

A comprehensive set of Skatepark Construction Documents for a 12,000 square foot concrete facility. Designed to  meet the needs of  beginner, intermediate and advanced skaters. Current to all industry specifications.
Learn more here...

$24.95 shipped worldwide.
Free shipping over $100

 


 
 
 
   


The pyramid obstacle and its variations typically consist of four flat bank sides at a given angle rising up to meet a flat deck. Again, the height of the pyramid and the angle of the flat banks are a personal preference and should have been determined during the design process.  Start by bringing in fill dirt.  Compact the dirt and then cover it with 4 inches of gravel.  Next, wet and compact the gravel.  The desired result is to get as close as possible to 4 inches (the depth of concrete) from the shape of the finished obstacle.  Any additional space will simply eat up more concrete.  Since it is very difficult to accurately form a pyramid from dirt and gravel, just get as close as possible.  In most instances you will want to place rebar prior to forming up the pyramid. 

Form the top of the pyramid using the same procedure that you would use to form up a flat surface.  Use a laser transit to insure that the form is even with the finish grade.  Place support stakes on the inside of the upper form.  Place lower forms along the bottom at an equal distance out from the upper form.  For the lower form the stakes will be on the outside.  The upper and lower forms are then connected at the corners with additional form boards or (preferably) expansion metal running from top to bottom with the face of the form even with each corner.  A flat screed is then used to spread the concrete within each section.  If wooden corner forms are used you will have to pour two sides then wait for the concrete to set.  After this you can remove the corner forms, pour the other two sides and wait for these sides to set.  Finally, remove the upper form boards and pour the top.  If expansion metal is used, all four sides can be poured at once and the top can be poured as soon as the sides have set.

 

 

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