Stairs in a skatepark mimic obstacles found in street skating.  Stairs will make an interesting addition to any skatepark facility.  However, it is worth considering flat banks instead of stairs for a couple of reasons.  First, it increases skateable space.  Second, it will reduce the likelihood of physical injury.  If someone is grinding a rail or jumping a span of concrete it doesn’t make any difference if it is a set of stairs or a flat bank under the skateboard and rider, if they make the trick.  However, if the rider does not make the trick there is a big difference between landing on stairs and landing on a flat bank.  On a set of stairs there is little if any chance for recovery if the trick does not come off.  The question is not whether the rider will wipe out or not, rather how severely.  It is your park, so use your own judgment.  If you decide you want stairs, here is the basic procedure. 

Getting the measurements right for step construction is important for safety and comfort if they are to be used for their intended purpose.  For skatepark construction we can bend things a bit.  Any step is composed of a horizontal tread and a vertical riser.  In general, make the tread at least 11 inches deep (12 is even better) and the riser no more than 7 inches high.  The landing at the top of the stairs should extend back a good 6 to 10 feet to allow for proper set-up for tricks. 

Begin by taking a measurement from the top of the deck of the stairs.  Use a string to stretch a level line from that point forward to where the bottom step will be and measure that vertical distance.  This is the total rise of the steps.  Now, calculate the individual riser height, tread depth and the total run. 

To roughly calculate the number of steps in the obstacle, divide the total rise in inches by 7 (maximum rise) and disregard any fractions.  For example; if you have a total rise of 40 inches.  Forty inches divided by 7 equals 5.71.  This yields 5 steps.  Next, divide the total rise by the number of steps to get the actual riser height.  Forty inches divided by 5 (steps) equals 8.  This means there should be 8 inches of rise per stair.  An 8 inch rise on steps is too much.  If the actual riser height is more than 7 inches add another step.  So, 40 inches divided by 6 (steps) equals 6.66.  This means there should be six steps with slightly more than 6½ inches of rise per step.  A general rule for tread depth is the tread plus the riser should equal 17-18 inches.  Or, the tread equals 17-18 inches minus the height of the riser.  In our example; 17 or 18 minus 6.66 equals 10.34 inches or 11.34 inches, respectively.  A 12 inch tread is best, so with our example, we are right in the ball park.  The number of steps multiplied by the tread depth calculates the run of the steps from front to back.  For this example we will split the difference and call the tread depth 11 inches.  Multiplied by the 6 stairs, we get 66 inches of run front to back.

Make some forms for the sides of the steps out of ¾-inch plywood.  Since you will be pouring the stairs before the slab around them add 4 inches for the depth of the concrete.  Mark off the steps according to the tread and riser calculations. At first, mark the steps level and square and then give the tread a ¼-inch pitch (maximum) to the front of each step to allow for proper water drainage.  Also angle the riser back from the top edge by up to 1 inch. 

Position the forms with the good face of the plywood facing inward.  Get the forms tight against the area the stairs will connect to.  Make sure each form is at right angles to the area of attachment and plumb to your finish grade.  Also, make sure the tread of each form is level side-to-side.  Drive stakes on the outside of each form at least every 12 inches.  Recheck the form position for accuracy and then attach the stakes to the form using screws or nails.  Add sufficient bracing to the forms to support the weight of the concrete.  Do not underestimate the pressure exerted by the concrete before it sets, it is substantial.  It is always better to have too much bracing than to have some part of the form “blow out” during the middle of a pour. 

Cut forms for the face of the risers.  Make them long enough to overlap the side forms and the correct height.  Nail them to the side forms and add additional bracing near the ends and center.  Coat the inside surfaces with diesel fuel so that the forms will release cleanly.  Hang sections of rebar tied on 1-foot centers 2 inches below the height of each tread.  Suspend these sheets of rebar from the corners of the forms with wire. 

When pouring the stairs, pour concrete into the forms slowly up to the height of the tread.  Work the concrete slightly with a shovel or muck rake, and tap the sides of the form to eliminate air bubbles.  Wait until the first step sets a bit before pouring the next one to make sure that it can sustain the weight of concrete placed above.  If there are to be any embedded handrail anchors add them now.  Follow the manufactures instructions.  Finish the concrete as usual.  Trim up the edges of the treads with an edging tool.  When the concrete has set enough to hold its shape, remove the riser forms, smooth the faces of the risers and round the junction where the riser joins the tread.  After curing, remove the side forms and patch any imperfections.

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